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Romancing the Stone

Modern leftovers -- and of course, a pizza stone.

I love pizza. I am a pizza purist. I eat thin crust, margherita pizza, preferably with fresh basil. Nothing fancy, nothing weird, nothing fundamentally fattening. I’m talking fresh mozzarella, imported parmigiano reggiano, real tomatoes. I don’t even like pepperoni. And even if I did, I wouldn’t eat it on pizza.

I don’t eat it all that much pizza – which is probably why I still think of it as special, and honestly, there’s also usually a huge salad involved. I’m a nutritionist’s dream. I eat the best takeout pizza I can find.

In the New Haven area with some of the best pizza anywhere, that generally means sending my husband tearing out to Modern Apizza. It’s not that I don’t like Pepe’s pizza, I do. It’s not that I don’t like Sally’s Apizza, I do. But I’m really not a big fan of abuse on my pizza, and Modern seems to have left that, mercifully, off it’s menu. Not so much the other guys.

Many years ago I invested in a pizza stone after equally many years resisting a pizza stone. What was I waiting for? Who knows?

I stick the stone in the middle of the oven, crank up the gas to about 500 while my husband heads out for take-out pizza. When he gets back – in go the slices; I turn off the oven, which is still super-hot; and minutes later – fresh crispy pizza.

A pizza stone absolutely is worth it. It’s not expensive and it’s great for baking and/or heating bread and a whole host of other things. And of course leftover pizza. Tastes like fresh – so go for it.

Remember though – NEVER put a stone in a hot oven. Put the stone in a cold oven and let it heat up with the oven. Let it cool down in the oven before washing. Wash with hot water and a steel scrubber. NEVER use soap.

And if I’ve offended anyone at Pepe’s or Sally’s – too bad. They should learn to be nice to their customers.

From Appel to Zinc

Denise Appel

Denise Appel

You think it’s easy to run a farm-to-table operation like the one at Zinc in New Haven? Take a stroll with owner-chef Denise Appel as she figures out how what’s in front of her at the farmers’ market can be what’s in front of you at dinner. Read about it in my story in Sunday’s New York Times Metropolitan section: