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Post New Year’s Culinary Stew

A stew of food notes is what we’re talking about here.

Wooster Square Market Jan. 16, 2010

The Diehards and Newcomers

CitySeed’s first New Haven market of the winter season (oh thank you for those 45-plus-degrees!) had a hefty showing of the stalwarts on Saturday: Stone Gardens still with Brussels sprouts and some pristine garlic; greens from Starlight and 2 Guys from Woodbridge; Waldingfield Farm had some lovely potatoes.

And of course there were the – essentially — non-seasonal guys: Trinity Farm with the full compliment of milk products and butter! They don’t always have that. Four-Mile-River was happily long on eggs and the various cheese guys had plenty.

And there were some welcome newcomers: Riverbank Farm from Roxbury, an organic grower with a commercial kitchen. So aside from loads of lovely looking carrots and parsnips, they had a large selection of prepared products. Riverbank is no stranger to Westport and Fairfield and a bunch of other markets, but they’re new to Wooster Square.

And an interesting surprise – Skappo restaurant in New Haven, known for Umbrian home-style specialties, also came loaded with soups and such. It’s all going make venturing out on those cold future Saturdays a lot more worth it. Market runs first and third Saturdays of the month at Wooster Square, 10 a.m.-1 p.m.

Warming up in Fairfield

For all the thin-blooded types who have been griping (and believe, me, I’ve heard you) about the winter Fairfield market being outdoors – good news, it’s back indoors. The market is in the Warehouse at the Fairfield Theatre Company, 71 Sanford Street, but had been relegated to the parking lot these last really, really, really cold weeks while repairs were being finished. They’re finished. Market is Saturdays 10 a.m.-2 p.m.

And speaking of FTC – Play with Your Food is back for another season at FTC, as well as in Greenwich and Westport (where it began in 2003). $42 will buy you a catered lunch and readings of one-act plays plus discussion.

Changing Hands

We reported several weeks ago that Arturo Franco-Camacho of Bespoke/Sabor and formerly Roomba in New Haven had two new enterprises planned for Branford. A deal to sell Bespoke/Sabor was underway at the time and was completed as of the end of the year. Bespoke and Sabor have new owners, new chef – all with histories in the Max Group (and elsewhere). Check out the website for the particulars. End of an era for New Haven, but as we reported – the three food carts ain’t going anywhere.

From Appel to Zinc

Denise Appel

Denise Appel

You think it’s easy to run a farm-to-table operation like the one at Zinc in New Haven? Take a stroll with owner-chef Denise Appel as she figures out how what’s in front of her at the farmers’ market can be what’s in front of you at dinner. Read about it in my story in Sunday’s New York Times Metropolitan section:

Tomatoes: Eat ‘Em and Weep

If you can get local tomatoes now, eat them, enjoy them, and savor the memory – because that very well could be it for Connecticut tomatoes this summer – especially organic ones.

Late blight is what we’re talking about here. I’m sure you’ve been hearing about it for the last few weeks. It’s the disease that caused the Irish potato famine in the 19th century. It’s a water mold type fungus that also affects tomatoes and is running roughshod through northeastern tomato crops right now. Here in Connecticut the prognosis is shaky at best.

Dr. Jude Boucher is the extension educator for agricultural and commercial vegetable crops for the University of Connecticut Cooperative Extension office in Tolland. As of Wednesday, he said he’s found late blight in all but New London and Middlesex counties (to be honest – he hasn’t tested Middlesex yet). He’s found it on “upwards of 20 to 25 farms.” That’s a lot. And no names – he’s not allowed to say where, other than that some farms have lost everything.

And if you ask him whether the organic tomato crop is in danger of being wiped out this year – he said: “There’s a very good possibility unfortunately. I don’t think were at that point yet. But each farm that gets it, it puts a lot more spores in the area, so the proximity of late blight sources increase.”

Translated – that means the more farms that get it, the greater the potential to spread. Late blight spreads through the air. It needs 65 -70 degree temperatures, rain and high humidity to survive and infect a plant and that’s basically what we had all of May, June and half of July. Perfect storm — to use a cliché, and pardon the pun.

And it’s tough to get rid of. You have to either spray – it does respond to fungicides, which are best sprayed as a preventive, not after plants are already well underway. Of course organic operations can’t do that, so they have to do the other method — digging up the plants and sealing them up or otherwise destroying them to prevent spores from spreading. And that’s really difficult with tomatoes because many growers use plastic sheeting and stakes, and all that has to be dismantled as well.

“This disease is devastating,” Boucher said. “It’s capable of killing a large field of tomatoes in just a few days.”

At Stone Gardens in Shelton, which is not organic, but does practice integrated pest management, Stacia and Fred Monahan already had one scare – so far so good, though,

“We’re spraying potatoes and tomatoes more than usual than we would with a regular i.p.m. program,” Stacia said. “We don’t want to take a chance of it getting into our fields.

At Star Light Gardens in Durham, David Zemelsky grows his heirlooms organically under plastic. “I just scouted like crazy,” he said last weekend. “I’m satisfied I don’t have it.”

Good luck with that. Boucher said plastic should help, but he’s seen late blight get into greenhouses and high tunnels.

Patrick Horan at Waldingfield Farm in Washington Depot – which is certified organic with tomatoes as its mainstay – has already had to contend with a devastating hailstorm in the crazy weather patterns of this spring. So Horan is making changes in how his tomatoes are picked.

“We’ll probably not hire help we previously hired because most likely they have been working at other farms and the potential risk is not worth it,” he said. Workers can carry spores on clothing, equipment vehicles, whatever. “It’s just the interns and ourselves,” Horan said.

“Any way that you can contain spores coming from another place, that’s a good idea,” Boucher said. “There will be some landings but you don’t have to help them.”

The other thing that’s making this particular late blight bout so devastating is how it started – likely from plants supplied by a grower to big box stores. Boucher checked three box stores in Manchester and found late blight in all of them. That meant it was actually going into home gardens all over the state, which in all likelihood infected the commercial growers at a very early point in the growing season, giving the disease lots of time to snowball through all that wet weather. Usually if late blight shows up, it’s late in the season and doesn’t do that much damage.

So where does that leave things. Well – as we noted – there’s a very high potential for Connecticut tomatoes to be decimated. Prices are likely to spike, big time. Normally, Bouhcer said, wholesale boxes start at about $20. “I’m suggesting they ask two-to-three times that,” he said. “I think supply is going to get short very quickly.”

Enjoy ‘em while you’ve got ‘em.

The Great eScape and Other Market Tales

Garlic scape season is here. Rejoice.

Huh you say?

Garlic scapes. The green, curly, snaky tail-like … well … thing that grows out of the top of a garlic stem. Think thick curly scallion.

In the last several years scapes have come to be late spring’s newest chic food. Truth is, not too many years ago they were simply thrown away or composted.

Trust me. Do not throw them away.

I learned that from Gary Cirullo at The Garlic Farm in West Granby. I also learned from him that most farmers cut the scapes off – a backbreaking task that has to be done by hand – so the garlic’s nutrients will be directed to the bulb instead of shared. As you might imagine, Gary was pretty happy to discover there was a gourmet market for his 4 acres of scapes.

Honestly, I don’t have a clue who had the bright idea to start eating scapes instead of dumping them – but all I have to say is thank you. They have a mild, clean garlic flavor with a sweetness that develops from cooking, not the bitterness you can get from garlic if it’s mishandled. You can eat scapes raw – thinly sliced or pesto style. You can blanch or sauté them. You can eat them alone, on anything or use them as you would onions for a sauce base.

My personal favorite – sautéed garlic scapes cut in one- or two-inch pieces with chard, with or without white beans, on or off pasta maybe with some other herbs, a squirt of lemon. (They’re also great in the greens and egg recipe in my last post.) No need to be timid – a dozen scapes to a bunch of chard is fine.

Turns out I’m not alone on the scapes and chard front. “My 18-month old eats them by the handful,” Stacia Monohan told me on Saturday at the New Haven farmers’ market. Stacia and her husband Fred own Stone Gardens in Shelton – and I was buying about two pounds of scapes at the time. That’s a big bag. Take it from the kid, that’s what I say.

But there’s a catch. Garlic scape season is now. When they’re gone, they’re gone. Good news – they last a long time in the refrigerator.

Is it for Real?

“I’ll have some tomatoes next week,” said Starlight Gardens owner David Zemelsky, who put up the little display. “They ought to last about a half hour.” Stand warned.

“I’ll have some tomatoes next week,” said Star Light Gardens owner David Zemelsky, who put up the little display at the New Haven Farmers' Market. “They ought to last about a half hour.” Stand warned.